Brioche
In some PDF's the stitch count in the collar section is incorrect; it should be 27, not 37.
Drive-Thru a.k.a. "Quick-o-Cheap-o" Children's Cardigan and Pullover - Hard-Copy Version Only
The printer left off yoke patterning instructions on some of the hard copy patterns. The information appears below:
Yoke Stitch Patterns
It’s simple! Work one color transition row/round by alternating the main color with the first contrast color. On the next two or more rows/rounds, work with the contrast color, only. When you want to transition to another color, work 1 row/round alternating the “old” color with a new one, and then switch to a new contrast color for a few rounds.
Depending upon the size you are working, you will have more or less room for color changes and stitch patterns. You can keep it simple by following my general guidelines, or you can refer to a stitch motif book and work the yoke in a “true” Fair Isle pattern of your choice. Make note of the schematic for yoke depths.
Green Cardigan: Three contrast colors were used. On the first “transition” row, I alternated the MC with the CC (K1 with MC, K1 with CC across the row). Then, I worked three rows of the new color. On the next RS row, I transitioned to a new CC by alternating the “old” color with a new one, (K1 with CC and K1 with new CC across the row). Then, I worked three rows of the new color. On the next RS row, I transitioned to a new color, again.
Colors used on the Green Cardigan:
MC – Dk Green, Color 130
CC1 – Lt Green, Color 146
CC2 – Dk Pink, Color 125
CC3 – Lt Pink, Color 135
Red Pullover: The yoke on the red pullover was worked similarly to the green one, with one exception. Instead of three plain rows/rounds between color changes, only two were knitted in plain color. This allowed for more “striping” action.
Colors used on the Red Pullover:
MC – Brick Red, Color 742
CC1 – Lt Tan, Color 722
CC2 – Dk Brown, Color 712
CC3 – Med Tan, Color 711
Luxe Mitts
After working rib and before working thumb hole, increase 8 sts evenly around instead of 6 (44 sts).
Flair
For PDF's purchased prior to 3/30/08, under Cast On instructions: Do not place last marker. Place only four.
Ripple
If purchased prior to November 5, 2009, or print pattern with a revision date of 9/04/09:
Dec Rnd 1 should read: *K3, k2tog; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, k2tog twice. Work Rnds 3 -12 of Stitch Pattern. Purl 1 rnd. 123 (135) sts.
Dec Rnd 2 should read: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts. K3. Stitch Count is correct.
Dec Rnd 4: Work rnds 5 - 12 of Stitch Pattern (not 5 - 11).
The Somewhat Cowl
The version that says "Rev 5/09": when working waist decreases the first "sm" should not be there. Instead, it should read: "K1, k2tog, work to 3 sts before next marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog, work to 3 sts before next marker, ssk, k1"
The version that says "Rev 4/09", when casting on for the Yoke, place markers in between all sections, i.e., Front, Sleeve, and Back and Front. "Pm" was omitted before the back section. Older and newer version have correction.
Yogini Bolero
Some patterns may have confusing Optional Body Shaping instructions. Here is an updated version:
Optional Body Shaping: Work 5 rows, then dec 4 sts on next (RS) row, then every 6th row to the end of pattern: Work to 3 sts before underarm marker, ssk, k1, sm, k2tog, work to 3 sts before next marker, ssk, k1, sm, k2tog, work to end of row.
Versions 7/08 and earlier will have incorrect multiple of sleeve sts, use the following instrux:
Short Sleeve Shaping should read: "Dec 2 sts this rnd, then every other rnd 1 (1, 2, 1, 2, 2, 1) more times...48 (56, 60, 64, 72, 76, 84) sts."
Long Sleeve Shaping should read: "Dec 2 sts this rnd, then every 20th (15th, 15th, 15th, 13th, 6th, 6th) rnd 1 (3, 3, 3, 5, 7, 9) more times. . . . 44(48, 52, 56, 60, 60, 64) sts."
